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 The Dales High Way is a new 90 mile walk which stretches
from Saltaire (near Bradford)
to Appleby-in-Westmorland. This is a challenging route across the high country of the
Yorkshire Dales devised by locals Tony and Chris Grogan in 2007. They
followed the packhorse road trade routes across the moorlands, mountains, woodlands
and riversides which connect some ancient and picturesque dale villages and
small towns. Rich in history, geomorphology and geology, the route is
nevertheless no push over with altogether some 13,900 ft of ascent.
From Saltaire the route crosses moorlands, speckled
with standing stones, some with ancient rock designs, and follows the
dramatic limestone scars of Malhamdale. It meanders
along the bank of the River Ribble and climbs Ingleborough of ‘Three
Peak’ fame. It
skirts the flanks of Whernside (optional ascent),
dropping into beautiful Dentdale before reaching Sedbergh and continuing with a breathtaking six-mile
ridge walk across the mossy folds of the Howgill
Fells. The way passes isolated Sunbiggin
Tarn before dropping into the lush green of the Eden
valley to finish in Appleby and you could return via a breathtaking train
ride along the settle to Carlisle line which
takes you back past some of the landscape highlights that you have been
walking through.
Tourist Information Centres:
Saltaire
(covered by Bradford Tourist Information Centre) Tel: 01274 433678,
Ilkley 01943 602 319, Settle 01729 825192, Sedbergh 015396 20125, Appleby-in-Westmorland
017683 51177, Carlisle 01228 625600
Typical Itinerary
Stage 1: Saltaire to Ilkley 7.5 miles (12 km)
The Walk starts from Victoria Hall in Saltaire. This was developed as a model industrial town
by the textile industrialist Titus Salt in 1850 and built in the Italianate
style, with huge well lit mills and worker’s cottages, bath houses, library,
school, but only a soft drinks pub! Today it is now a well preserved World
Heritage Site. There is quite a bit of undulation across the heather moor
with its prehistorical marked stones. Leaving town up through a wooded valley then across Rombalds Moor, you
are at the southern point of the Yorkshire Dales, by Weecher
Reservoir and soon crossing the famous Ilkley Moor,
origin of the famous song: ‘W'ere hast tha bin sin I saw
thee? On Ilkley Moor Ba'
Ta-at, On Ilkley Moor Ba'
Ta-at.’ Reaching 380 m at the highest point today, there is a stone circle
nearby called ‘The Twelve Apostles.’ You then come to the Lanshaw
Lad boundary stone with vistas over Wharfedale.
Finally dropping off the moors through Ilkley
Crags, you reach White Wells Cottage (a Victorian Spa House) where if the
flag is flying, you can get a welcome tea. Finally hobble into pretty Ilkley, originally a Roman fort town but really developed
by the Anglo-Saxons whose crosses still adorn the Parish church.
Stage 2: Ilkley to Skipton 11.4 miles ( 18.3 km)
Heading back to the moors, the way
passes a little waterfall (Willy Hall’s Spout), skirting the moor’s edge
before gently ascending across Addingham Moor
passing the Bronze Age ‘Swastika Stone’ with its marking. Then Pass by another
Saxon town, Addingham, where in 867 the Archbishop
of York hid to escape the Vikings, and the first successful spinning mill was
built in 1789. The route then follows a possibly Roman Road called ‘The
Street’ to an interesting old marked milestone at Draughton
Height. The way into Skipton follows an old toll
road to reach this, the largest town of the route, known as The Gateway to
The Dales and one of the best preserved in small towns in Britain. A lot of
the building occurred here in the 1650s under Lady Anne
Clifford after the English Civil war. Market days: Monday, Wednesday, Friday
and Saturday. There is also an interesting canal basin in the town adjacent
to the main street.
Stage 3: Skipton to Malham 12.9 miles ( 20.7
km)
The
first part of today’s route climbs up Park Hill where the Roundheads placed a
canon to pound Skipton into submission during the 1640s
Civil War. After crossing a golf course, the trail enters the Yorkshire Dales National Park
and upon Flasby Moor to Sharp Haw (357m), with
magnificent views. Down from the hill you follow the Hetton
Beck to Hetton village.The
district’s Women’s Institute was the original inspiration for the film
‘Calendar Girls’ when they decided to raise money with a nude calendar. Next
it is up via the Winterburn Reservoir across moors
to Weets Top (414m) from where you can appreciate
the transition between Gritstone moorland and
craggy Limestone ahead. From here there are views of Gordale
Scar and Ingleborough peak, before descending into
attractive Malham village, or you can bypass it
directly heading to Malham Cove. Both this and Gordale Scar with their limestone cave and waterfalls are
two of the premier Dales attractions.
Stage 4: Malham to Stainforth
10.3 miles ( 16.6 km)
Leaving Malham Cove, one
enters a dry limestone valley (river submerged millennia ago) lined by the Ing Scar Crag and then climb up a rocky stairway and over
Langscar to the restored Nappa
Cross at the foot of Grizedales Crags, on the flank
of Kirkby Fell. The view back is to Malham
Tarn and Pen-y-ghent. You can make a short detour
up Kirkby Fell to appreciate the aspect of the
Craven Fault – an ancient earthquake zone which was responsible for the crustal shifts that have resulted in today’s landscape.
The path swings round under Attermire Scar where from
the 1840s an array of Roman and prehistoric finds were found in the local caves. By Warrendale Knotts you look down
towards Settle and you may be able to make out the southern Lakeland peaks. The trail then heads
directly into Settle, another attractive market town with a range of
accommodation (market Tuesday). Continuing on the way crosses the River Ribble towards Giggleswick and
follows this delightful river all the way to Stainforth Bridge,
by an impressive little cataract and thence into Stainforth.
Stage 5: Stainforth to Chapel-le-Dale 11.6 miles ( 18.7 km)
Leaving The Ribble pass
Smearset Scar with its prehistoric walling,
possibly marking burial sites, and
then descend to the hamlet of Feizor. After a
mixture of gates and stiles leading through a number of fields, the way goes
through Wharfe heading out to Crummack
on a bridleway, passing the pretty limestone slab built Clapper Bridge
which is next door to the Wash Dub field, where the stream was dammed on
occasion to create a pool for sheep dipping. From Crummack the terrain gets more bleak
and care is needed over limestone pavements and in taking the correct paths
especially in low visibility and bad weather. There is an alternative bad
weather route shortly via Selside to Ribble Head and Chapel-Le-Dale. However the main route
joins the famous Three Peaks Track and ascends the breast of Simon Fell and
up a steep stone stairway to Ingleborough (724m).
This believe it or not in cold wether, was the site of a vast Brigantes
(Iron Age tribe) fortress. Although due to the harsh climate it is now wondered
whether the site was not some older Bronze Age religious site. You need to be
careful of the steep stony descent in wet or misty conditions. Walking
through the Ingleborough Nature Reserve, with
walkways to protect the landscape, you pass a series of limestone scarps to
reach the village
of Chapel-le-Dale. Here
we find St. Leonard’s
Church, home to the remains of over 200 labourers
and their families who worked upon the Settle – Carlisle Railway 1870-1877. there were so many accidents and diseases such as TB were
rife. Note There is an alternative
route from Ingleborough peak to Ribblehead via Park Fell.
Stage 6: Chapel-le Dale to Sedbergh 15.7 miles ( 25.2 km)
The whole walk today follows a packhorse trail known as the Craven Way. When
you get to Bruntscar farm / hamlet there is a good
weather alternative steeply up to Whernside (736m),
the highest of the Three
Peaks. On the way down
you visit the pretty Whernside Tarn. The standard
route however, via Ivescar with great views of the
famous Ribble Head viaduct, reaches the old signal
box at Blea Moor Sidings. The two paths meet again
at Wolds End. Then with views opening up of the Howgill range in Cumbria,
the trail descends to Deepdale and via numerous
stiles to Dent in Dentdale. This was the most
important market town of the area with at least 30 shops in the main street
and very much associated with wool and wool knitting. Today it is a much
quieter place with quaint cobbled streets, one shop and a couple of pubs.
Perhaps only the large 12th century St. Andrews Church
hints at the past wealth of the town. This was also the birthplace in 1785 of
the famed geologist Adam Sedgwick. One of his students was a certain Charles
Darwin. Out of Dent the route follows The Dales Way for a while, across Barth
Bridge and across Long
Moor towards Longstone fell, alongside the boggy Holebeck Gill. Finally a walled lane brings the weary
walker across New Bridge
and up into the town centre of Sedbergh
at the foot of the Howgills. This attractive 13th
Century market town, with its old world atmosphere, has developed at the
confluence of four rivers, where ancient trade routes merged; a staging point
for commercial routes across the Pennines
dating from Saxon times. The town is full of character from its cobbled
streets to its historic houses, some of which show the hallmarks of the old
knitting and woollen trades which made the area
such a thriving community. It is famous for its public school, set in
magnificent parkland on the edge of the town. There is a fine Norman church,
George Fox, founder of the Quakers, preached here, and overlooking the town
is the site of Castlehaw, an ancient motte and bailey castle built to repel the Scottish
hordes. After the 2001 Foot and Mouth Disease outbreak, the Sedbergh booktown project was
started in order to encourage an increase in the number of visitors. A
company was set up in 2003 to develop a community of businesses involved in
selling, writing, publishing and designing
books and other publications.
Stage 7: Sedbergh to Newbiggin-on- Lune 10.9 miles ( 17.5 km)
Brace
yourselves for a 6 mile Howgill ridge walk crossing
today starting with a steep ascent. Hopefully it will be clear so that when
you reach ‘The Calf’ (676m) you will be in a position to appreciate the views
of the Pennine hills such as wild Boar Fell, Cross
Fell, the Orton Fells and Sunbiggen Tarn. Then
there’s the Lakeland
fell skyline and back towards The Three Peaks, from whence you have come!
Watch out for the feral ponies that roam around the hills all year. You will
notice that there are no drystone walls up here, The Howgills missed out on
the enclosure Acts from the 1750s which parceled off a fifth of England
for rich landowners away from commoners. There is a poor weather route down
to Bowderdale from ‘The Calf’, but the main route
continues over Hazelgill Knott then up West Fell
and then down to Newbiggen on Lune.
If the weather is bad when you actually leave Sedbergh
there is a bad
weather route following the River Rawthey. Newbiggen on Lune Set on the northern edge of the Howgill Fells in limestone country gets its name from the
River Lune that runs through the valley on its way
to Lancaster.
The community’s main activity is farming fell sheep. Stone buildings, a
Methodist chapel dating from the early 1800s, the church of St Aidan,
a village hall, a plant nursery and a number of accommodations add to the
village mix. Fishing for trout in the river is a popular sport.
Stage 8: Newbiggin-on- Lune to Appleby 12.7miles ( 20.4
km)
Following the
Great Asby road out of the village, the trail soon
turns off across Ravenstonedale and around the bird
watcher’s paradise of Sunbiggen Tarn, familiar with
anyone who has done The Coast to Coast! From Tarn Moor you follow wall lines
up over Great Kinmond with great views, before
dropping down through Clockeld Farm onto a Lane into
Great Asby. Follow a minor road to Howe Slacks then
follow Scale Beck to Rutter Force waterfall and
associated mill. The trail then follows The Hoff Beck to the hamlet of Hoff
and onwards to Bandley Bridge.
Crossing over stiles you then climb away from the Beck passing over fields
and at the top of a hill you will see Appleby
Castle with the Pennines in the background. An enclosed lane
brings one out at the walls around Appleby
Castle and you enter
Appleby by the High Cross at the top of Boroughgate.
Appleby is at the heart of the lush Eden Valley
and is one of the loveliest towns in the North of England. It was transferred
from Scotland to England in
1092, but continued to suffer attacks from the Scots and was all but
destroyed in 1388. The picturesque street of Boroughgate,
with some interesting old buildings, is at the heart of the town and links
the well-preserved Norman Castle with the fine medieval Church of St. Lawrence.
The castle is a motte and bailey type of the 12th century, the eastern part was re-built in the mid
fifteenth century by Lord Clifford and later in the seventeenth century,
restored by Lady Anne Clifford.
You can see Lady Anne's tomb in
the parish church
of St.Lawrence.
Visit Appleby in June and experience the atmosphere of the three hundred year
old Horse Fair. Traditionally the fair was an annual event where Gypsies
gathered to sell their horses, also a meeting place where they congregated
from all over the country.
Getting to the Area
Fast frequent rail
services operate along the National Express East Coast line (NXEC) form
London Kings Cross to Leeds and then change to Saltaire,
(which has its own railway station) taking around 3 hours. From the North / Scotland: use Northern Rail services from Carlisle to Skipton (2 hours)
and then change for Saltaire (22 mins). From Newcastle,
hourly Cross Country train service to Leeds
(1 hour 25mins) then, train to Saltaire (14mins).
See www.nationalrail.co.uk for
connections from where you live. Please contact National Rail Enquiries 08457
484950 for details of timings and they will pass you on to the relevant train
booking numbers.
For connections via
bus: Saltaire is in The Bradford District which is readily accessible by
national and local bus and coach services. For National Express bus enquiries
telephone 08705 808080 or www.gobycoach.com.
’First in Bradford’ is the main operator of local bus services in Bradford
along with ‘Keighley & District Travel’ who
offer services within the Keighley area.
For further information on routes and times contact Metroline
on (0113) 245 7676 or www.wymetro.com. First Bradford on (01274) 734833 or www.firstbradford.co.uk.
Keighley & District travel on 01535 603284 or www.keighleyanddistrict.co.uk
From Bradford centre to Saltaire
there is a bus every 10 minutes (Mon to Fri): route 662 (First Bradford)
taking 19 mins. Less frequent services at weekends.
There are
good road connections to Saltaire: From the centre of Bradford, it is only 3 miles to Saltaire
via the A6168 and A650. Bradford district is
served well by motorways and main trunk roads. Bradford's own
motorway, the M606, brings you within 1.5 miles of the city centre and links
with the M1, A1 and M6 via the M62.
If you are travelling from the south, east or west,
you will probably find it most convenient to use the M62 and the M606. If you
are arriving from the north-west you will probably use the A629/A650 via Skipton and Keighley. From the
north-east it is most convenient to use the A1 or A19, and reach Bradford via
the A59 and then the A658 south of Harrogate.
Departing From Appleby: Appleby is on
the Northern Rail Line, and you can either go north to Carlisle (40 mins) to link up with mainline Virgin Glasgow Central to London Euston
services (normally hour), or head south to Leeds (2hours) to link up with
NXEC services to London Kings Cross.
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